2 Years and 10 Months ago I was gifted a pair of AKG Y50s by my father for Christmas. I love these headphones. I’ve worn them daily, sometimes for hours at a time. I can say for certain:They were not meant to last this long. Yet, thanks to a lifetime of fixing things, they’re still going strong: To this date I have:
Bought a carrying case for the headphones
Replaced the cable
Replaced the cable
Replaced the cable
Repaired the right ear cup (it fell off).
Repaired the left ear cup (it fell off).
Repaired the right ear cup again (the screw loosened and it fell off).
Replaced both ear pads.
The first thing I noted about half a year into the ownership of these headphones is that the nice neoprene carrying case that came with them was completely incapable of protecting them properly. So I bought a hard shell headphone box from Amazon, which, as a bonus, had a perfect slot to carry my graphing calculator. What can I say? I have specific needs.
Next, the cable that it came with was no longer working. So I contacted AKG. My first shock was that, for a 100 dollar pair of headphones, they wanted 30 dollars + another 12.00 for shipping to send me a replacement cable. This was unacceptable:
So I did what any self-respecting modern person would do. I searched Amazon for a replacement cable. They had one! and for $12.00, shipping included. The off-brand cable worked just as well as the Y50’s original, and no one could tell the difference in the microphone quality.Then,half a year later I replaced the cable again. This third one has continued to work.
Then I had a new problem. The ear cup fell off! It would just forlornly dangle from its cord. I tried to fix it a few times by carefully rerouting the wire the way AKG intended and re-tightening the screw. However, despite loctite and other measures, it would inevitably work its way loose. It ends up the threads themselves wore from regular use. So I broke out a drill and a soldering iron. I routed the wire through the top of the ear cup and put a new self-tapping screw in the side which held much better.
This worked for a while and then the left ear cup had the same issue. Fortunately my fix/redesign has held up. So far the screw has only come loose once, but I was able to simply tighten it and it returned to normal operation. I suppose there is a chance I messed with the tuning of the headphones this way, but as far as my untrained ear goes, they still sound like a mid-range-decently-good-but-not-amazing-you-won’t-be-disappointed set of headphones.
Most recently, after nearly three years the ear pads had started to wear down and the foam was poking through. Much to my surprise I could get another set on eBay for 13 dollars. They even had the silk printing on the inside of the cups for left and right!
Brand Name and Popularity: If I had purchased a less popular set of headphones from a different brand I might not have had access to the same level of repair parts. Simply typing in Y50 got me access to all the replacement cables and ear pads I could want.
Protect your items: Honestly, I should have had a hard case for these from the beginning. I think there’s a chance that I could have at least made it to year two without the cups falling off had I done that.
If it’s already broke, how bad can you fuck it up? Last is just a general rule of repair. Take your time, think through it, but if it’s between a new one and fixing it: Don’t be afraid to bust out the soldering iron and drill.
All in all these were a great pair of headphones. If it wasn’t for the ear cups falling off, I’d rate this an extremely durable pair of headphones. I consider ear pads and cables to be reasonable wear items; though I was disappointed at the high cost of ordering replacement wear items from AKG. I think this is a failure on their part.
The thing that bothers me about the ear cups falling off is that it really seemed to be something that could show up in testing. Everything else worked great and is still working within a reasonable lifespan. The headband adjusts. The joints tilt and move like they’re supposed to. It’s just this one joint that failed, and it failed the same way multiple times in a row. I’d have felt really betrayed if I’d had to order a new set of headphones a year into ownership. We shouldn’t be making trash to fill our planet with garbage.
I think it should, at some point, become the ethical and moral obligation of engineers and hardware companies to not produce trash. I also think it’s our responsibility as consumers of objects which consume vast supply chains, enterprises, and companies to try and maintain and repair these miracles for as long as we can.
Anyway, if you’re handy, buy these headphones. They’re not bad. Though, since my Pixel 2 needs a dongle, I think my next pair will be wireless.
I have a problem with buying motors for mass manufacture; it’s a problem of trust. Take, for example, the Solarbotics GM3; every motor manufacturer in China has a copy of this motor collecting dust in their catalog. Each and every one of them claims that their motor is stronger, faster, etc. I need to decide if I want to order thousands of these motors and I have no easy way to check their performance.
I’ve observed that this motor has played a form of the telephone game for mechanical engineering. A great example of this is the compliant clutch. The original version of this motor has a little two part clutch in it that can flex out of the way when the load is exceeded. Most of the Chinese copies of this motor still have a two part gear, they’ve just disabled the clutch entirely. My best guess is that at some point a manufacturer made a quick tooling change for a customer to disable the clutch. Then another manufacturer got one to copy, and copied the change without understanding its purpose.
Anyway, I started looking around online for a way to measure the motor’s output. It’s a small motor, but I figured someone has solved this problem. Nothing exactly right. So I got to looking a bit more and discovered a measurement tool called a Prony Brake. This seemed interesting, but I couldn’t imagine a practical way to get it to work on such small motors. Then I stumbled across a variation called the rope brake dynamometer. This, I felt, was something I could work with.
In a normal rope brake dynamometer you’ve got a rope around a wheel. On one end you have a weight and on the other a spring scale. As the motor changes speed you can see the force on the spring scale increase or decrease depending on which side of the rotation you have it on. Then it’s a formula away from having the power curve.
I wanted a way to increase the “mass” of the weight so I could stall the motor and see the full torque curve. I also wanted to be able to arbitrarily set the mass depending on the motor, to do this I came up with this configuration:
My plan is to wrap a small thread around a known spindle size. On each end of the thread I’ll have an extension spring. As I expand the springs, I’ll measure the force at each end. Then it’s a matter of subtracting the readings to get my torque. After that it’s only an angular velocity measurement away from getting the power output of the motor.
To measure the force produced I settled on some of these generic load cells from Sparkfun. I thought about ordering cheaper ones from eBay or Amazon, but I figure that if one is designing measuring equipment you might as well start with something that has a little QC behind it. They also sell a breakout board for an interesting chip called HX711. This takes all the headache out of interpreting the output from the load cell and should generally make things a bit more repeatable.
On top of that I’ve got a teensy on order, some stepper drivers in a box somewhere, and a motor driver likewise. Hopefully I can cobble together the electronics and most of the mechanics from 3D printer discards.
With the electronics worked out I started to design the perfect mechanical assembly. It would be a nice precision construction; made out of metal. It would move beautifully, mechanical engineers would admire it for years. It would cost hundreds—- wait, maybe I should check if this whole idea actually works first.
So I paused that design and forced myself to make a really crap version out of plastic first. Rather than being able to support any arbitrary motor, this one would be designed for exactly one motor. All I need is something to test. Which is where I am today.
So my next steps are simple in concept. I’ve ordered all the electronics. I’ve started my 3D print. I’ll assemble it all, wire it up, write some code, and see if it works. If I can generate some curves I’ll move on to some fancier design work.
My eventual goal is an open source design that can measure just about any small motor.
The first one, which took an absolutely enormous amount of time, is a tutorial on resin casting. This will be part of an ongoing series I’m working on for quick prototyping using these methods. In this turtorial I duplicate some buttons to keep my favorite coat in service for another season.
I wrote two new articles for hackaday. The first is, “Keep Your Nozzle Hot and Your Prints Cool.” This is about my experince in tuning up the quality of my 3d prints by adding sufficient cooling. It really helped!
The next took me quite a while to write. I really like Fusion 360 as a mid-range (for now) alternative to Solidworks. This is a short tutorial on using some of its parametric cad features. Making Parametric Models in Fusion 360
I’ve written two new articles for Hackaday. The first is “What’s in a Tool: A Case for Made in USA”. This article made front page of slashdot, has over 50,000 views, and nearly 500 combined comments. I’m very excited about the good reception. Read it on Hackaday.
The second is an article about my adventures in resin casting. Unfortunately it’s a bout a learning experience I had with different sorts of mold release for silicone molds. Also on Hackaday.
So recently I launched a kickstarter. I picked a product that I liked, and thought, well, that it would be easy. I was very wrong. Making even a simple idea or product good involved a large amount of careful thought, work, and help. I hope that the first kickstarter is the hardest.
I’ll report back if I try this again.
I had been searching for a good wallet for a while. I had finally settled on a wallet from Bellroy, the $89 dollar “Note Sleeve“. Insane price, I know.
Honestly I loved my wallet. It WAS thin. It was classy. It did serve me well as I traveled overseas for work. However, it did have a tendency to launch my ID and credit cards onto the ground as it aged, but rarely. So when my friend started using just a binder clip as a wallet; well, I fell eighty-nine dollars worth of superior. However, dang his wallet was thin, and damn if he never dropped a card.
So, since this is a post about making a product, I wanted to analyse some flaws in the clip as a wallet.
The clip damages the cards.
The binder clip actually puts down an large amount of force. It’s easily enough to crack/deform a credit card over time or destroy something as fragile as, say, a coin or plastc.
The clip does not protect the cards.
This seems like it should go on the previous category, but it deserves it’s own section. One of the properties of a wallet is to keep currency straight, protect business cards, and keep the credit cards from breaking over time like they tend to. A clip leaves them open not only to damage from itself, but anything around it as well.
The clip is silly looking.
Having a binder clip as a wallet by itself is not going to impress anyone. It’s clever, but it’s cheap. Obviously cheap. There’s something about a nice wallet that communicates intentionality. A sense of having it together. A clip does not do this.
The clip has a tendency to fly off the stack when it hangs on something.
This is not the first thing you’d consider, but while a clip has really good clamping force normal to its jaws, it’s really week in shear. So it has a tendency to twist off its bundle and then send itself flying off with its own spring force.
Then came a 3d printed prototype for an improved binder clip wallet. My first impression was that it was a very silly object, but after some use I decided that there was actually something there. It worked really well. It solved a lot of the problems to the clip wallet.
The first prototype of binder set out to solve a lot of problems.
Solved: The clip damages the cards.
The wallet sides add a millimeter or so of extra plastic between the cards and the clip. Through months of use this has proven to be enough to completely stop any of the damage caused by direct contact with the clip.
Solved: The clip does not protect the cards.
By extending the edges of the plastic of the wallet to the edged of the card it offers full protection for anything inside of the wallet. It also has the added benefit of making it easier to put stuff in the wallet since you no longer have to clamp in the middle under the clip.
Not Solved: The clip is silly looking.
The 3d printed wallet still looked, well, hackish. This needed work.
Solved: The clip has a tendency to fly off the stack when it hangs on something.
The ramps on either side of the wallet eliminate the chance of any rotation, which keeps the clip secure. It also lets you slide the bundle of cards into a tight pocket easily.
Let’s make it a product: Design and Prototyping.
I knew that binder was a simple product. There’s nothing complicated to it. So it would most likely be an injection molded part. Which led me to a problem. How the heck am I going to prototype this?
I remembered reading the Guerrilla Guide to CNC Machining a while back. If you’ve never read it I highly recommend that you do so. In my opinion, it’s one of the finest pieces of technical writing ever written. The hackerspace in Louisville, LVL1, had a vacuum degassing chamber and a CNC machine in disrepair. Knowing that I could make it gave me enough confidence to go ahead with designing for injection mold instead of 3d printing. Which meant that I could do vastly more complicated surfaces and smaller features.
So I set out to design and refine the halves of the wallet.
I eventually arrived at a shape I really liked. The wallet needed the twin ramps at the side to provide the support for the clip and to make it easy to slip into a pocket, but this made the wallet feel thick. It also meant that the user gripped a wedge to get a handle on the wallet, which is not good because wedges do what wedges do. So my first priority was to find a way to make the wallet visually thinner and improving the grip, while making sure the wallet looked good at the end of the day. I sketched a lot. A whole lot. I finally arrived at the idea that the wallet takes its final shape from. At the edge of the wallet is a triangle that is completely flat and as thick as a credit card. When using binder this gives the wallet a feel of being no thicker than a card, even though it is about four times as thick. From this triangle the ramps come up. It actually works to visually thin the wallet, since the ramps are now triangular and your brain is telling you the triangular section is thin by feel it quite thoroughly tricks you.
So, I set out to get my first prototype and see if it worked.
First I had to repair the CNC machine at the hackerspace. The space had inherited a Zenbot years ago with a nice Wolfgang Engineering spindle. I also went ahead a built an enclosure for the machines. They were to live in the woodshop and it got very dusty in there.
Equipped with a working CNC machine I set out to buy materials. I followed the guide fairly well. I managed to score some really good deals on milling bits from ebay sellers. I got great Made In USA endmills from a milspec pcb fab shop out of chicago for nothing, however I had to order from china to get ball end mills. I really searched and ended up with a very useful collection endmills for around $20. 4x 2mm ball, 4×0.8mm ball, 3×0.5mm flat, 3×2.4mm flat, and one bonus bit. They were all two flute since I would be working in plastics and renshape mostly.
Next problem was Renshape. Renshape is great for making molds but it’s super expensive. It’s a fiber in a plastic filler that doesn’t stretch, absorb water, shrink, or expand and machines super easy. You don’t want anything cheaper than Renshape 460. I thought I had found Renshape 460 cheap from carbon3d, but they were actually repackaging the much worse Renshape 440. The surface finish from it is relatively terrible compared to the Renshape 460. Honestly you can get the same finish by milling and then sealing the heck out of MDF. If I were to do this again I would drop the extra cash to get the board of precision board plus from Inventables. It’s just as good as Renshape 460 and a little cheaper.
With CNC, Cutting Bits, and Material in hand I set out to mill my first mold. I shopped around for software to do the CAM paths, but eventually settled on Fusion 360. IT IS PHENOMENAL. IT IS ALSO FREE! Seriously, there is nothing better for the hobbyist than fusion 360 for CAM paths.
I did have some hiccups at first. Setting offsets, dealing with files, and all sorts of little details. I did manage to avoid plunging the bit into the table or breaking any… this time. Here are the top five things I learned running this cnc machine:
To hold down a block of renshape use ducktape, then double sided tape on the tape, makes cleanup super easy.
Rather than using one super large GCODE file with all your paths and bothering with toolchange codes in LinuxCNC save multiple files from fusion 360, it remembers your position between file loads and moves.
Renshape is magic butter that milling bits love. You can tear through the stuff. Leave the default speeds. Also it wont dull your bits.
Set up three times. Be super mega ultra exact about getting your z-height just right for a good finish. Take your time. Heck take a break and come back and do it one more time. Check it again. Nothing worse than ruining a two hour long machining job because your z-height was off by 0.1mm
If you can’t tram your table (the zenbot has no real tramming ability other than shims and swear words) tram the work piece. Make the first operation a face operation.
So! Now I have a positive for a mold! Time to pour the silicone. For the urethane resin and the silicone mold material I just followed the Guerrilla Guide’s suggestion. Innovative Polymer IE-3075 and Quantum Silicone QM 262. There’s lots of reasons to pick these two and Guide covers it really well.
So I put some mold release on the positive and following the guide exactly mixed up the silicone, degassed it, and poured. It was a successful disaster. It worked, but I had a ton of bubbles in the mix. Miraculously, no bubbles on my part.
I had an issue where no matter how long I degassed the silicone (or resin) it would always bubble up. What I eventually figured out with the help from Michal Zalewski of the Guide is that you can actually pull such a vacuum that the resin starts to boil, or worse: one component of the two part mixture starts to boil. The solution? Run the vacuum until you see the bubbles expand and then collapse. You’re done at this point, there are diminishing returns. For silicone take the cup of mix and pour a thin stream from high up to get the rest of the bubbles out. For resin, brush the inside of your mold with resin and then pour low from one spot.
I waited 24 hours and had my first mold! Next came quite an embarrassing round of experimenting to get the parts to come out. Eventually though. I started to have success.
Here are some things I learned:
There is a real and serious time limit on the resin. You have three minutes. Practice your movements like your a bomb diffusal specialist or a surgeon for best results.
BUY A SCALE. BUY. A. GOOD. SCALE! Especially if you’re mixing small quantities of resin. You need a solid .01g scale. Don’t mess around, the little drug scale you can get at a gas station or a kitchen scale won’t do. I got a great Made in USA used educational scale off ebay for around 25 bucks. I had serious trouble getting parts that were either too brittle or too bendy. The second I got a real scale these problems went away.
You need absolutely zero colorant for a lot of color. I ended up just dipping then end of my paint mixer in my colorant and then mixing up a batch of resin for a serious color. A lot of my first parts were a really dark purple because I was just using way too much colorant.
Anyway, after about two weeks of waking up in the morning pouring a mold, going in at lunch, removing a part, rinse, and repeat. I started to get good at it. I also had enough parts to start testing the product out. I started to hand them out to friends. They liked them quite a lot, which was great! They even said, un-promted, they’d pay $10 bucks for one, easy. Which was around the price I was hoping to sell them for. It was super heartening.
There were a lot of changes and drafts that came out of this stage. For example I had 1.0mm of clearance between the clip and the wallet edge. This was too much and the wallet could twist almost three degrees off center with this much clearance. I tightened it up to 0.25mm (the magic of this resin process is the accuracy you can get) and that solved that. I also experimented with adding ramps and curves to the edges to make insertion of the clip easier, but none of these really helped at all and the clip was pretty easy to insert in the first place.
Eventually I felt I had a product that was ready for market. So next came the kickstarter.
The campaign was way harder than I thought it would be. The plan in my mind was, wake up two days in a row, slave over some cool graphics, upload, launch. First off. Making nice graphics is hard. My girlfriend is an industrial designer and a very excellent graphic designer. I spent about six hours on a set of icons after four hours of sketching, and asked her to take a look at them. I could tell that she had some thoughts, but didn’t want to hurt my feelings. She asked if she could help out. I thought about it and said, duh, yes please.
So if you’re ever wondering what the difference is between someone who’s sort of good and someone who is a dang professional. Here is what four hours of my girlfriend’s time came up with:
What I’m getting at is that if you have access to someone who’s better than you at something, please use their talents. It will make your project so much better for it. A portfolio of some of her work is here.
Next I wrote some copy and a script for a video. This took quite a few drafts. We rented a good camera and went to it. I highly recommend getting good equipment. I thought my girlfriend’s mirrorless camera would do just fine for the video; getting a Canon 5D made a huge difference in how professional the video looked. If I could do one thing better though I would get a good microphone set-up for the interview video. The audio is terrible, but there was no real time to re-shoot.
A small complaint on Kickstarter here. The editor is awful. Truly and terribly awful. We had to redo the graphics three times to get them to work with kickstarter’s terrible editor.
I also spent some very serious time calculating and recalculating the goal for this Kickstarter. I had originally set it a 10k, which would be enough to buy an injection mold tool and do the run. However, after using my trusty gram scale and recalculating the shipping. After researching all the possible hidden costs. I had to bump the number up to 12k. Even after all this, I am set to make at most $1,000 dollars off this Kickstarter if I meet my goal. It’s really a labor of love at this point.
Anyway, we submitted it to Kickstarter for review, got accepted and now it’s time to launch.
I did a ton of research and decided that Tuesday at 9:00am CST would be the most successful time to launch. This hits the East Coast around lunch and hits everyone else’s lunch too. Weekends are not so good. The biggest thing that helped with the launch is friends and family. I was blown away by their support. There may have been a single manly tear in my eye, but I plead the fifth. In two days we made it to six percent and I’ve been really pleased to see that I’ve started to pick up more and more pledges from people I don’t know.
I’ve also been running small ad campaigns on Adwords, Reddit, and Facebook. Reddit and Facebook have been the most successful, and the most affordable for driving clicks to the Kickstarter. Adwords is doing pretty well too. I’ll have to cancel them soon (tomorrow) because they are eating into my budget fiercely. However, looking at the analytics it has helped drive a few random pledges to the Kickstarter, and from what I’ve read that’s important to Kickstarter’s algorithms for verifying a good Kickstarter.
Anyway, now I’m here waiting. It’s a difficult product to market. In some ways it’s a silly product. In many definite ways it’s the best wallet I’ve ever used, but I had to use it to truly appreciate it. It is hard to communicate a tactile sense for how good something is with words and pictures and requires that the consumer has a good imagination for that sort of input. It is a risky bet. I’m hopeful though and the experience of creating a product, campaign, and launching with ads and everything has been very educational. Next on the list is getting the Kickstarter on some blogs. The ultimate goal being to get the Kickstarter to page one or two of the “what’s popular” section.
It was an enormous amount of work for something that’s set to make so little, but I would 100% do it over again any time. If you’re interested to see the final kickstarter you can check it out here. Either way, thanks for reading about my adventure!
It goes like this: You walk up to the gas pump, swipe your card, push the regular button, put the fill nozzle into your car, pull the lever, and nothing. Why? You look at the screen, and there scrolling on the screen is a message, “Remove Nozzle Then Select Grade”. You selected grade, then removed nozzle. How could you? You uncultured brute. Which brings me to the bad design trope:
The Gas Pump Fallacy: “Enforcing order to an input when the order needed is arbitrary, or blocking one input for an equivalent input when both are acceptable”
The pump could just as easily have asked you to select grade then remove the nozzle. As far as the software and valves are considered it’s meaningless. The pump needs two pieces of information, “the nozzle is out,” and “the grade is selected”. Since these are binary conditions that have to be met to begin, the order is arbitrary.
“Alright”, you say, “but I have to ask the user to give me the input, shouldn’t the order match the request?”
Well, no. Ask the user to input the information in whatever order you want, but accept it in whatever order it’s given. Another example of this design done right is the automatic registers at, specifically, Walmart. The register needs to know when to start scanning items. It figures this out by waiting for an interaction. The Walmart register lets you scan an item to begin the process, or it lets you push the start button. It offers you both, but accepts and needs one. The Kroger terminals, however, will not start scanning till you push the start button.
Finally, a third example of this being applied in software is the iPhone lock screen. If your fingerprint isn’t recognized the iPhone happily swipes the screen for you to the PIN input. However, even though the touch-id is no longer prompted for, the iPhone will still accept and is looking for a proper fingerprint input. The coder could have easily justified accepting only the pin at that point for security or code reasons, but it would not have improved the interaction.
The gas pump is the best example I could think of. This is because the user will develop a pattern based on the pump they are most used to. It is a common object and the designer has no control over the patterns they learn. A good designer will recognize when the pattern is meaningless and design a pattern agnostic system. Forcing a user’s hand is meaningless, the best interaction is one where the object being interacted with vanishes into the background, and only it’s function is left visible. A good toaster toasts bread. It has a lever and a knob. It does not force you to attach it to your WiFi before beginning the toast cycle.
Well it’s that time of year again where windows needs a good ole’ reinstall. So I thought I’d take the time to write down the apps that transform it into an OS that, despite a bit of love-hate, I pick over any other: I used to love Linux. I used to love it so much I ran Gentoo with xmonad and compiled nightly. Now I just can’t stand to go back. Now, I do have to add the disclaimer that my day job is Design Engineer, and Solidworks doesn’t run on Linux. But I think even if I did, it would be a hard sell. Windows has a high degree of Just Works for a lot of stuff. Printers, WiFi, Graphics, Games, etc. Also, since XP, 7, and now 10. Windows has been comparatively, lightweight in feel to other OS’s. Though this is probably a matter of computer specs and personal perception. Ubuntu, has been by far the least responsive OS I’ve ever tried. OSX is super nice, but has less Just Workiness than Windows (and less software I need).
I’ve left of a bunch of programs that are a little more cross-platform, and wouldn’t really sway me one way or another. For example, GIMP for image editing, or inkscape for vector editing. Likewise, PyCharm, Python, etc. These are all pretty cross-platform, and don’t specifically improve the Operating System experience or fill a gap in it’s usefulness enough to push it one way or another. VLC, FastCopy, etc , however, does dramatically affect how useful I find windows. Some apps, like rescue-time, have an extra bit of Just Works on windows that brings it onto the list.
I highly recommend installing from USB, it’s faster and less hassle. Plus, my laptop didn’t come with an install disk, so to use my legal windows license I have to pirate an ISO (thanks for shutting down Digitalriver, Microsoft, I know you secretly hate me, but it really means a lot more when you show it through action).To make the bootable stick I’ve always had good luck with Rufus .
Browsing: I use Chrome. It works great on windows. Firefox is great and has much better plugins, but it renders stuff wrong. It alternates between being phenomenal and being IE6. Opera, I just don’t know. Edge is alright, but basic.
Torrents: I have to get my illegal disk to use my legal license somehow: I like Tixati, it’s riddled with programmer art, and even worse, programmer interface design, but it just works and is lightweight.
Compressed Files: Can’t get better than 7-zip. Fast, always works, and never ever pops up anything. Looking at you winrar-zip-whatever >:(
Screen Shots: Windows default screenshot behavior is dumb. Press Print Screen, Open Pain, Copy, Ruin Image with Clunky Interface, Rage. I really like, and have bought a license for Screenpresso. It does video, takes screenshots of regions of the page, automatically scrolls through websites to take a shot of the whole page, and just works. It looks like super sketchy software from the 00’s but it ain’t. Great stuff.
File Copying: I’m running windows 10 now, and it still sucks at copying files larger than a kilobyte. Especially over the network or to a thumb drive. So I always install FastCopy. It’s a bit clunky, but super lightweight and copies and deletes large files nicely. Highly recommend installing the shell extensions. The website looks sketchy, but it’s just Japanese.
Tiling Window Management: I love WinSplit Revolution. It’s the reason I bought a 15″ laptop (for the numpad). It lets you press Ctrl-Alt-numpad and arrange your windows nicely in regions. Great for coding or research. Unfortunately development stopped, but it still works on Windows 10. You have to get it from CNET. Don’t use their downloader.
Hard Drive Management: Where did all my space go? Windows can’t tell you, but nothing is better at answering this than SpaceMonger. If you search you can find a free version. I paid for a license.
Time Management: The internet is distraction. Try out rescue time. It’s great at making you feel guilty.
Office: Microsoft Office: I pay for this. That’s how much I prefer it over the alternatives. It just works. Also, no one has come close to Excel yet. (Especially not google docs, you should be ashamed Google.)
Cloud Storage and Versioning: I use dropbox and git. I do every single bit of work in my dropbox. When my computer dies my files remain. It’s great. Haven’t lost work from a computer crash in years. Though… Dropbox, do I really have to edit the selective sync settings from my computer? Why can’t I store that on the cloud? Also, Carousel is poop.
Videos: VLC. There is no other choice for windows, and that is okay.
Things that need work, Image Viewer: Honestly, there’s nothing that is any good. They either support anything and have the worst interface in the world (I’m looking at you ifranview, the 90’s are gone), try to take over every image operation performed on your computer, or support nothing and suck: The built in windows viewer. Just rage. That’s all you can do. The new Windows 10 viewer finally supports animated gifs, but it’s interface is terrible (as my rule describes). It is the least terrible. But really, no OS has this down yet.
Multiple Desktops: Technically windows has supported multiple desktops for a while, but in a hack-y way. This actually works pretty well in 10, though it always forgets where it’s supposed to put my chrome windows after a wake-up cycle.
Better File Explorer, Better Command Prompts. Windows is taking some hits and it’s nice.
Things that need work, More Dumb Bullshit: Bing, Cortana, Ads in the weather app. Yea, well, Windows is the ultimate design by committee. However, that committee also decides to not do a lot of stuff too. Which is why windows XP, 7, and now 10, were really nice and stable. 7 being the king of any OS I have ever used (It broke Linux desktop’s uptime record for my house.)
I approach all my problems the same way. Define a problem, Research, Act, Record, Repeat. My problem: I would really like to be someone like Elon Musk, Bill Gates, Nikola Tesla, and the continuing list of tech heroes. I am consistently not someone like that. Though I would like to believe that I am consistently more. I am on my millionth repeat by now. I have lost count of the experiments. I’ve read biographies. I’ve imitated sleep schedules (damn you Buckminster Fuller). I’ve changed diets. I’ve thrown myself in and out of an assortment of physical ailments through these experiments. I’ve done all manner of things to unlock the secrets of these people. I truly think I’ve got all the pieces and parts in me to be someone like that. I, like everyone else, just was not fortunate enough to be born with the assembly guide.
I think I’ve got it. I have the secret to their success. It’s simple. It’s dumb.
It’s the ability to do chores. Or by my definition. Something you do every day, that has to be done, has a cumulative positive effect if done, and a cumulative negative effect if not done. Studying, dishes, exercise, emails, budgeting, etc.
Hard work is easy. I have worked on a fun, but extremely difficult engineering problem for days. I have been unable to sleep because I just have so much dang fun doing it. My head will ache, my eyes will have not blinked in hours; leaving them itchy for days. Hard work is easy.
Chores are extremely hard. Not in the actual doing. They’re usually easy. It’s in the mental strain of putting aside what you’d rather do. I have to send that email, even though it’s not really pushing the company forward as much as this one innovation might. I have to document this change, but it’s slow and I really want to test. However, my experience in industry has told me that the email you didn’t send was a contact you lost and that documentation you didn’t write is four hours of lost time down the road.
Elon has come out and said as much, “You are in constant danger of the company dying and if you are the co-founder or CEO, you’ve got to do all sorts of jobs and tasks that you might not wish to do, that are not intrinsically interesting to you. … And if you don’t do your chores, essentially, then the company won’t succeed. You’ve got to be prepared to do whatever it takes, work whatever hours. No task is too menial. I think, that’s the right attitude for CEO of a start-up.”
Alright fine, but you listed some other names up these. What about Tesla? Well, for one, Tesla was quoted as saying “By an irony of fate, my first employment was as a draughtsman. I hated drawing; it was for me the very worst of annoyances.”. Yet if you take a look at his Colorado Springs Notebook, it’s not only orderly, but beautifully drawn. Plus, if you’ve ever once tried to wind a copper coil. You’ve had the meaning of tedious burned into your fingertips.
Fine, what about Bill Gates? Well, remember the email example I had earlier. Here’s an excerpt from an interview with the man, “We’re at the point now where the challenge isn’t how to communicate effectively with e-mail, it’s ensuring that you spend your time on the e-mail that matters most. I use tools like “in-box rules” and search folders to mark and group messages based on their content and importance.” He’s often mentioned that he’d much rather being doing pure software design, but his days and his company needed him to correspond with people.
Brilliance has little to do with success. Being able to produce occasional bouts of it and wow your friends is common as dirt in tech crowds. I have sketches from High School where I was trying to figure out how to build an electric car charger and power station. I figured the person who controlled the standard for delivering the fuel controlled the money. I had it all figured out. I was going to start with golf carts and selling power at campgrounds. Then the world. By the standard of brilliant innovative ideas foisted by the media, I should be a bajillionare just for thinking thoughts like that. So where’s my car company? Well. Studying against the vertical incline that was needed to solve such a problem was hard. More interesting problems showed up. I didn’t stick with it because it became a chore.
People are smart, brilliance is common like diamonds, but the difference between a drawing of a brick building and a brick building is that someone actually placed those bricks one by one.
Anyway, that’s the latest from my research and personal development. Comments and thoughts are very welcome.
I have a Prusa i2 that I built at a build-a-thon years ago. It works great! Well, it did, but time kept on moving forward like the big jerk it is, and everyone built much better printers. Now it only works okay. I’m saving up for a move across country so I don’t want to spend too much of my hard earned dollars. Luckily though, past me hated money, so I have a lot of spare parts right now.
My plan is simple. Use what I have lying around all the parts from the prusa i2 to make a printer that’s really above average.
My inventory is thus:
With these limitations I set out to work. I went through a couple of revisions
before I figured out what I’m calling my no. 1 rule to printer design (no. 1 rule pending to change).
1. Design the movey hot plastic bit first. It determines the size of everything else.
So, without any more delay. Here’s where I am with the x carriage.
I’ve done some neat stuff here that I would like to shamelessly brag about. Feel free to shamelessly flay my ideas to shreds in the comments. If we cant be dicks to each other on the internet then what did we invent it for?